*2024 Update: I have since researched that sprouts may provide more nutritional benefit to chickens than fodder. This is because the nutrients from the seed diminish as the sprout grows into a plant. The ideal harvest time seems to be early on–when the sprout is harvested at 3-5 days. If offering sprouts instead of fodder, you can sprout multiple kids of grains at once, giving your chickens a variety of nutrients.
Fodder is essentially grains that have grown into grass. Sprouting and growing grains unlocks much of their nutrient content, making them more digestible. Growing fodder for chickens is an excellent way to boost your chickens’ intake of fresh greens, and simultaneously reduce your feed costs. I initially considered feeding the chickens a diet consisting of 100% fodder, but I wasn’t sure that this would give them all the nutrients they needed, so I opted to offer my chickens both fodder and chicken feed. I give my six chickens a tray of fodder daily, made from 2/3 cup wheat seeds, and also allow them unlimited chicken feed. I also give them poultry grit to help them digest the fodder, as well as crushed oyster shells to ensure they are getting enough calcium.
Seeds to Use
I learned that you need to use fresh seeds. Twenty year old seeds from home storage don’t sprout very well. I have also experimented with sunflower seeds and lentils (both worked fine). I prefer wheat because I can buy 25 lb. bags of it at Winco Food for $14. I like hard red wheat best.
*2024 Update: I have found that I can get wheat, barley, and other seeds at better prices if I called a local mill and asked them if they sell wheat that is used for animal feed. They were not listed on the mill’s website, hence the need to call. I got a 50 lb. bag of wheat for about $15.
Starting Fodder in Jars
When I started trying to grow fodder, I had very little success. After a lot of investigation and experimention, I came to the conclusion that the best way to start fodder is in jars. Once the seeds have sprouted to the length of about about ½” (1.3 cm), I transfer them to my fodder trays.
Benefits of sprouting in jars
When the seeds get a head start sprouting in this manner, they form a nice root mat quickly in the fodder tray, keeping them in place during watering–so no sliding to one side of the tray. They also have a higher sprout rate, so they grow much thicker. Another benefit is that the water doesn’t splatter when flowing down through the trays. (Imagine pouring water on a soft carpet versus onto hard plastic.) This is important to me, because I keep my fodder system in the kitchen, and I can‘t have water splashing on the hardwood floor.
How to Sprout in Jars
To eliminate mold, the jars need to be drained completely. In order to do that, I built a little rectangular sprouting rack. I use window screen for the lids and leave the jars at an angle upside down on the sprout rack. Twice a day, I fill the jars about 3/4 full with water and drain them. I don’t have to spend a lot of time doing this, as I don’t have to wait until all the water drains out; I can set them down upside down while they are still dripping. To catch the drips, I stretch plastic wrap over a rectangular frame, pushing the plastic down to form a little “catch pool.” I set this under the sprout rack. (The nice thing about using plastic wrap is that you don’t have to clean it if you don’t want to; you can simply remove it and put on new wrap.)
*2024 Update: An easier method than building a sprouting rack would be to purchase sprout stands.
To sprout in jars, simply soak seeds from morning until evening, drain and rinse; then the following two days drain and rinse twice each day.
Fodder System Indoors
After a half day of soaking and 2 1/2 days of sitting, I move the sprouts to my fodder trays. I built a three-tier system with two trays per tier. The tiers are at alternating angles, so the water I pour into the trays flow downward at an angle.
My Indoor process is:
- Day 1. Morning: Soak seeds for 10-12 hours in a jar. Evening: Rinse and drain.
- Day 2. Morning: Rinse and drain first jar, start soaking seeds in second jar. Evening: Rinse and drain both jars.
- Day 3. Morning: Rinse and drain first and second jars, start soaking seeds in third jar. Evening: Rinse and drain all three jars.
- Day 4. Morning: Rinse and drain all three jars. Sprouts in first jar moved to a tray. Start new seeds soaking in first jar. Rinse and drain second and third jars. Evening: Rinse and drain all jars and pour 1+ quart of water on the fodder tray.
- Day 5-9: Morning: Rinse and drain all jars, then move oldest seeds to fodder tray, and start a new batch of seeds soaking. Empty water from collection tub under the fodder system. Pour 1+ quart of water on each side of the fodder system. Evening: Rinse and drain all jars, pour water on fodder system.
How much water is sufficient?
I find that the sprouts don’t need very much water to grow in the trays. A little more than one quart (1 liter) of water on each side twice a day is sufficient for good growth. As long as the entire tray is flooded, the length of watering time doesn’t matter. Watering three times daily yields a little more growth, and if I happen to forget to water once, the sprouts’ growth is slowed.
Why not use a pump?
You might question whether it wouldn’t be easier to use a pump on a timer instead of manually pouring water twice a day when the fodder system is indoors. I tried this and decided it was easier just to pour water. It comes down to the smell. After running through the trays of fodder, the water develops a foul odor. It becomes self-evident that, unless you want a stinky room, you’d better change that water daily.
When watering with a pump, you have to take into account that a digital timer requires at least one minute of watering per time. That translates into 2-2 ½ gallons of water being cycled by the pump during each watering session. So you would be dumping and refilling at least three or more gallons of water every day. It is definitely easier to pour a little more than a quart (liter) on each side twice a day, and empty a little more than one gallon (four liters) a day.
Fodder System Outdoors
When the weather allows, this same system can be taken outside for a completely different approach to watering. It should be placed in the shade with access to a hose spigot. (Ambient light is enough; direct sunlight could be too intense and scorch the tender sprouts). I fitted my system with ¼” tubing above each tier, and installed water misters above each tray. (Misters are available to purchase). I simply attach the ¼” tubing to a ¼” tubing hose adapter, and then attach that to a digital hose timer, a pressure regulator, a filter (if you have hard water) and the hose spigot. I use a hose splitter so I can still use my hose for other things. I set the timer to run three times a day for two minutes each time (a little more often during the month of July).
When the fodder system is outside, my daily task consists of just removing the fodder that’s ready and filling that tray with the new sprouts.
When I bring the system inside in the fall, I disconnect the hose from the adapter and leave the extra tubing coiled on the side of the fodder system, hanging on a hook. (I also I store the hose timer indoors.) It’s fast to set up outdoors and fast to move indoors.
Conclusion
I experimented with many iterations of fodder systems for several months, and have used this system for over a year. This system is extremely easy to use, inexpensive to make (about $25), versatile for each season, and the results speak for themselves!
